Tuesday, October 16, 2012

How To Tech - Sport Bike Tune Up

Like all things your bike needs regular maintenance just like a car. While this may seem like
a task left to professionals, its really not a big deal. So, without further delay.
Here is how to perform a basic tune-up on your sport bike. 

Todays Tech Tips Are Being Performed On An R6, other bike may vary slightly,
but the overall effort and general locations of spark plugs and air filter will remain the same.

Start by removing the seat. You will need to raise the tank to get to the plugs and filter and the seat won't allow this movement until removed. There are always at least to bolts holding the seat in, once removed seat should easily lift off. If not check for a hidden bolt possibly under the seat like these.

Next remove the upper air duct covers. These being off will make later steps a lot simpler.
Again they are just held on by to small screws and easily lift off.
With seat and covers removed, remove the two tank bolts located on the front of the tank securing it to the frame.
Once out lift the tank and use the prop rod (if you have it) or a long extension to secure the tank in
an upright position higher the better.
This is what you'll see under the tank. It may vary slightly depending on the make of the bike,
but air box should be the majority of the undercarriage at this point.
Remove the 8 or so screws securing the cover down to expose the filter. As you can see ours was pretty dirty. Once off go ahead and ditch the filter as well (we are not reusing this) if you have a k&n or reusable filter already you can clean and reuse

 Loosen the two screws on either side of the ram air tubes and remove

With tubes out, remove the bolt securing the air box in place and lift up to gain access
to the breather lines connecting to it.
There are 4 air lines and one sensor to remove. One in the back, a couple on each side and the air temp
sensor just pulls out gently. if it doesn't free check to make sure it doesn't screw in.

This is what you should have below the air box.

The plugs are below the little rubber flap. Though it is a tight area to work in. You should be able to fit a 3/8 ratchet in their with no problems. To remove the coils. unclip the wire and pull up using a twisting motion. These are on the very tight to prevent water from entering some some force will be needed.
This is the coil, once removed check for any damage or corrosion in the plug end that may suggest the need for replacement. Better to do it now if needed then later, since you have it apart.

These plugs have about 8-9000 miles on them. As you can see the electrode is misshapen and worn.
but we have good coloration which means the tune is correct and proper air/fuel mix is in each chamber. 
With new plugs installed, reverse the steps above. if your reusing or replacing your air filter remember to read the instructions. This K & N model requires a piece be cut from it before use, other may require slight mods as well.

And That Completes A Basic Tune Up.
Next week we'll show you how to change the oil. and show you  how to adjust, replace and maintenance the chain.

Monday, October 15, 2012

Feature Ride - 2009 Yamaha R6

All Black '09 R6. Custom headlight jump so both work at all time (hi or low beam),
Blacked out windscreen and flush mount turn signals

Out back there is a LOR exhaust, Integrated L.E.D. under tail,
power commander V with auto tune o2 and a tank saver
to complete the bike

Tech Tip - Ball joint replacement

Worn ball joints can be a serious hazard. Essentially, they are what hold the spindle to the car. This failing means your wheel will no longer be attached and that's not going to end well. To tell if its time to change them there are a couple signs. If you can see the joint, it should have a rubber boot around it. Like below. If that boot is worn, torn and outright gone its time to replace the joint. If you can't see the joint you can often tell by the loud squeaking or even grinding sound when ever your car/truck's suspension travels (up and down movements). To replace, depends on upper or lower joint. We will discuss both here.
This your typical worn out joint. Notice the boot is completely gone.
First upper, very straight forward standard swap out. Our vehicle is a Ford Explorer, very common suspension and notorious for ball.joint failures. On these trucks the and most car you cannot replace only the upper ball joint. You must replace the entire assembly. Two bolts shown below unscrew and slide out so you can remove and replace. I recommend marking the current ball joint placement, so you can place the new one in the same position. This way you can save money in alignment costs. Separating the ball joint from the spindle can be a pain, if you don't have a ball joint separator. The best way i find is to use a 5lb sledge. Give it a couple good smacks on each side of the spindle near the joint, normally frees it up.

The lower joint is a press in, press out which will require a special tool. The tool can be rented at Autozone or discount for a small fee which will be return when you return the tool or you can buy one for around $120. With the top join off, remove the crown nut from the steering arm and remove it from the spindle. It lodged in use the same hammer technique used on the upper mount or if you have a ball joint separator this make it easier. Once off remove the caliper and caliper beaker assembly. Then the rotor and if you have four wheel like our vehicle. You will need to remove the bearing assembly as well. To remove there are three bolts located on the back of the hub in a triangle pattern. Once removed the hub slides off. Last remove the lower crown nut off the lower ball joint. One off remove the spindle to gain access to the ball joint. Using c-clip plies or a pair of needle nose pliers remove the clip. Using the tool, proceed to press out the old joint or you can hammer it out if you wish. Then using the press, press in the new joint and put on the new c-clip. Before reassembling you'll need to grease fill the joint using a basic grease gun. Then reverse the steps and reassemble.

This is the steering knuckle mentioned above. Once Unbolted a few taps to the side of the spindle should free it.

The 3 Bolts to release the hub bearing assembly.

Our car was equipped with ABS to we needed to unbolt the sensor before removing.

Simply slide off bearing assembly.

Using the ball joint press tool, press in and out the old bearing.

With the new bearing in. Put on the new c-clip and fill with grease using supplied nipple.

This should be your finished product.

Friday, October 12, 2012

Tech Tip - Rotors (When To Replace)

Often times you may need to replace your rotors for several reasons warping, glazing or grooving. Here's some ways to spot problems, so you know when to change them.

Warping is the easiest problem to spot. This will cause a slight to sever shutter when stopping.

Grooving is the second easiest to spot, this is caused my faulty wearing of defects in the pads. To check simply run a finger across the rotor (while cold) and check for any deep pitting or grooves. Grooving will also represent itself sometimes as brake squeal/whistling also, but can be mistaken for pads that need replacing as this will make a similar sound.

Glazing is the hardest to spot. For this you'll need to take the wheel off and check for a highly polished look or discoloration. This is caused by excessive hard stops and is usually accompanied by a slight or heavy warping as well. This will cause brake fade and longer stopping distances, since it will cause the pads to not grab as well.

Side Note - While they used to "turn" rotors (shaving them down), this isn't done anymore do to tight tolerances and materials of todays vehicles. I highly recommend purchasing new rotors instead of having them "turned"

Quaker Steak Classic Car Meet 10/11/12

Some Jet Dragsters Made An Appearance.....

Beautiful 68 Camaro

One Of My Favorites 57' Belaire 

Nice '96 Impala With An LT4

Rare '67 Corvette

Clean '68 Mustang Convertible 


Another Rare Spot Was This Cuda